Engine accessory work, engine mount install, oil cooler lines

Started off on the 15th by removing the vacuum pump studs from the engine. I could have left these on and used spacers to take up the space from the cover, but it would have looked janky (in my opinion) and the spacers cost the same as new studs, so I figured I'd just buy new studs when it came time to use this spot again, and install the cover plate with bolts instead.

Removing these was a huge pain; they were really stuck in there. I used the typical two jam nuts tightened together, but no matter how tight I made them (really, really tight; like stretched threads tight), all they did was spin off the stud together. I had to attach a vice grip to the studs and spin both at the same time to get them to spin. Good thing I'm tossing these, because the threads were trashed.

This hole was then plugged with a Superior 60430 cover plate (why did this cost $40? maybe make your own). I used MS20074-04-06 drilled head (course thread) bolts to install the cover so that I could safety wire them for extra insurance. They were also installed with lock washers like the rest of the fasteners on Lycoming accessory cases.

Not bad safety wire for an amateur, in my opinion. Sneak peak of the engine mount.

Next up, I realized that with the factory oil filter housing that put the oil filter straight out the back of the accessory case (pic to the right), I was going to be very, very close to hitting the firewall. In fact, I don't think you'd be able to get the filter off once the engine was mounted. After looking at what a few other builders had done, I found that a 90 degree oil filter housing exists that positions the filter upward and out of the way.

I called and talked with the owner of Casper Labs, who manufactures one example of these. He was familiar with Velocitys and told me that the prototype housing had actually first flown on his friend's Velocity. He assured me that it would fit with the mount and firewall, so I ordered one. He also told me that the added benefit of the adapter was the no-mess oil change. With the oil warm, you can prick a hole in the top of the filter and the oil will drain back into the sump. After 20 mins (or overnight) or so, you spin the filter off and clean up the few drops of oil that were left.

At this point, I removed the vernatherm from the factory oil filter housing and set it aside (carefully, they're delicate). The factory housing was then removed.

At center, photos in this post are out of order.

Once the new housing arrived, I cleaned up the mounting location, installed the new Casper Labs housing, and re-installed the vernatherm.

New oil filter housing at center.

I also re-positioned the oil cooler line fittings and installed a new oil drain line on cylinder 3, as it had been worn nearly through from rubbing against a cowling or something in the other plane.

We also mounted the engine mount to the engine. I had painted it a few days before in *snazzy* blue. We were going to do white, but the blue will match the prop tips and isn't quite as boring. :D