Starter connections, fuel servo | 12.10.2020 - 12.11.2020

Started running the first of the wiring. Since the engine's in place, figured it made sense to terminate the starter wire. I used 2 ga wire; some people use 4 ga wire for the starter and I guess it typically works fine, but technically for the amperage drawn by the starter and the distance from the battery a 2 ga wire is better. I briefly considered using 4 ga, but when I bought the kit, it came with a whole bunch of MIL-W-22759/16 wire in varying sizes. I had enough 2 ga to run to the starter, but not enough 4 ga. Since I had the 2 ga wire on hand and it would definitely carry the current properly, I went ahead with 2 ga.

The connector was crimped onto the cable with some specialized large gauge crimpers that I purchased off eBay. Once crimped, I slid heat shrink over the ends and shrunk it in place and labeled it.

Here's the routing through the engine. It uses an adel clamp on one of the engine studs to keep the cable away from anything important.

After that, I removed the fuel servo to replace the fitting that goes to the divider. It didn't quite hit the firewall, but was really close. After talking to Scott Swing, he told me that he put a shorter fitting in the engine install kit that they had sent to me. I dug through the bins and found it and figured it would be best to get some more clearance between the fitting and the firewall.

Old fitting

New fitting

Once that was complete, I worked on fabricating the oil lines that will connect the engine to the nose mounted oil cooler lines. Same process as creating the fuel lines.

Here's the line connected at the bottom left of the image, and going up and over the engine for marking.

I didn't get any great pictures of making the cables because honestly it's pretty standard.

- Jeff